Surfing Life Lesson: Go at Your Own Pace

Last Sunday, I went to Cloudbreak. It was big and I was sitting far outside attempting to build my confidence towards the line up. I made it there eventually, heart pumping, eyes glued to the horizon. I saw a set coming and resisted the urge to paddle out. The first wave came and I realised it was going to break in front of me. Sh*t. I dove under and made it. Gripping onto my board, I got dragged back towards the reef on the second wave. The third wave came and ripped the board out of my hands; I felt my body thrashing under water. I pulled on my leash searching for the surface only to see another wave. Watching the lip clamping down, I paddled as hard as I could-- my arms burning from CO2 build up as I dove under. The power of the wave washed over me and I popped up on the other side. I made it though, but I was done for the day and paddled back to the boat. I was not willing to go through that again.

The next day we went back to Cloudbreak and it was much smaller. I was still shaky from the day before and couldn't sit in the line up. I was waiting too far out and didn't care about looking like an idiot. It took all morning before attempting to paddle for one. I missed the first few waves because deep down, I knew I wasn't ready. Most people left and I was by myself, I saw a wave coming--something small, something I knew I could handle. I committed to catching the wave, made the drop, and rode it until the end.

I smiled to myself. What a feeling.

Sometimes in life, we experience situations that leave us scarred-- that cause us trauma and instil fear within us. Other people will try to "help" by giving their opinion and offering their advice. Whether it's from a place of love or a place of control it is not up to them to decide what is right for us. Learn to block out the external noise, take time to heal, and remember to go at your own pace. Reignite the confidence that is always there within by honouring intuition. Speak to yourself kindly with patience because only you will know when you are ready. When that moment comes, you will be unafraid to rise with a bright smile fully trusting your own strength and courage. ✨

📷@stevemophoto